Climbing Volcano Pinchincha

Hola Todas,

 

It has been a while since I have checked in with you fine folks so I thought my sick day could be used to update everyone. Last Saturday I completed something that I had been wanting to do since I arrived in Quito which was climb Volcano Pinchincha. A little background on Volcano Pinchinhca. Pinchincha has two major peaks Guagua Pinchincha(15,696 ft) which means child in Quechua(ancient indigenous language of the Andes) and Rucu Pinchincha(15,413 ft) which means old person in Quechua. Guagua Pinchincha is the active part and last erupted in 1999 covering Quito in several inches of ash. Quito is located on the slopes of Pinchincha and if there was a major eruption there could be massive problems.

Now back to the story at hand. I woke up a little chuchaqui(quechua for hungover) from a night out on the city and thought about falling back asleep but decided to stick with it. I met up with Buddy(yes that is his name) at Quicentro, the local mall, with my backpack filled with my jacket, 3 liters of water, and my ham and cheese sandwich my host mom made me. We took a short 2.50$ taxi ride to the Teleferico to take the cable cars up the mountain. The ride up the Teleferico costs 8.50 for non Ecuadorians and around 4 bucks for Ecuadorian citizens.  The Teleferico raises from 2 950(9,675 ft) meters up to 4 050(13287 ft) meters in 10 minutes. The ride offers great views of the surrounding mountains and of Quito, it also gives you your first experience with altitude sickness as your body experiences rapid altitude change. I felt fine besides for a slight headache which was probably from the hangover. We arrived at the top and explored the little park they have at the top which includes a restaurant, a little church, and a little museum. We didn’t waste too much time before we started our long ascent to the top of the peak. P.S. there have been to known to be robbers that are on the trails so make sure you go with at least one other person to ensure safety.

In the first 10 minutes we found the stable of horses that you can rent to explore the area or take you to the base of the mountain, but we wanted to hike the whole way and continued on. We soon discovered that our lack of cardio stamina combined with the extreme altitude was having an effect on us. At the top of each big hill we had to stop and catch our breaths, slow down our heart rate, and keep drinking water. Make sure you stay hydrated or you are going to have a bad time! Suncreen is also a most, the thin air and proximity to the Ecuador makes burning very easy, even if there are clouds. We just kept on trucking at a slow and steady pace while looking at the amazing views of the valleys, mountain peaks, and Quito. The first part of the trip consisted of a long trail of rolling but verily steep hills as you get closer to the prominence of the mountain. After around 2 hours of hiking we reached the base of the mountain and decided to stop and enjoy our almuerzos(lunches) of a sandwich for me and bread for Buddy. Poor college students ftw!

After we finished we continued our trek around the backside of Rucu Pinchincha, This is where the trail gets a little narrower, involves climbing over rocks, and at times sharp drop offs to the side where you wont survive the fall. We finally came to the famous sandy slope which signified we were close to the summit but still had a lot of work to do. There are two trails to reach the top of Rucu Pinhcinhca the first involves walking up the very steep sandly slope(around 50 degree slope) for about a .2 of a miles or take the longer but easier switchback trail. We ran into some Ecuadorian guys who had passed us earlier and we followed them up the easier switchback trail. Halfway up the trail kind of disappears as it becomes straight rock. This was when Buddy and I were happy we were with the Ecuadorians, who had climbed it before and therefore knew the way through the labyrinth of rocks. We arrived at a steep cliff that offered amazing views, so we stopped for some pictures and relaxed for a bit before the final ascent. After about 10 more minutes of crawling on all 4s we finally reached the summit of the mountain!

The views were amazing on the top of the peak. I had climbed to an elevation of 4696 meters(15406 feet) and felt a huge sense of accomplishment. That is over 7.5 times higher than Blacksburg’s eleveation! The summit offered amazing views of Guagua Pinchincha, the active stratovolcano, the valley below and parts of southern Quito. The side we had summited became enshrouded by fog, it was a surreal moment. The one side was clear as day and it was as if a invisible forcefield held back the fog on the other side. Over to the left it seemed like I was in an airplane as I could see blue skies above me and a layer of clouds only a few hundred feet below me. There were also two blackish birds with orange beaks(cant remember their names) that landed on the peak not 20 feet from us which was really cool also. After the necessary pictures we starte our descent. 

 

After scrambling down the rocks on hands and legs, and without cutting my hand open, we came to the famous sandy hill again. This time we went down the 50 degree slope part. This was one of the funnest parts of the trip. While descending you pretty much sprint/slide down the sand, aka “Sand-Skiing” the newest sport to sweep the nation. While doing this make sure you keep your weight back, its okay to fall on your butt, not on your face. Also cuidado with the random huge rocks in the middle of the trail. The rest of the trek down was pretty uneventful and takes about half the time as the ascent. We met some cool Portuguese people and an Italian man who were a little bit older than us. They all spoke 4 languages fluently, some people have all the luck! We also encountered mountain bikers who enjoy biking down the dangerous trail down to the Teleferico. On the hike down we were also able to see Volcano Antisana in the distance over Quito. It was a snowcapped mountain that is over 18000 feet high, I dont think I will mess with that one.

 

We finally reached the Teleferico after around 5 hours of hiking. 3 hours up and 1.5 back(breaks involved). We hiked around 6 miles and ascended over 2000 feet. This was definitely one of the more challenging physical experiences of my life but also one of the most exciting and rewarding. I suggest attempting this difficult but enjoyable climb if you are in Quito one day of your lives.

There are around 70 photos of my hike of Rucu Pinchincha on my Facebook Photo Album “Ecuador”

 

Well thats all for now from the Gringo en Quito

Thanks for reading everyone

Jesse

 

 

 

Ecuadorian Soccer

Hola Todas,

One of the things that I was really excited to do when I knew I was going to Ecuador was to attend a soccer game. Well I didn’t have to wait too long to cross it off my Ecuador to do list. On Saturday night( 1/18/14) my friend Lucas and I decided to attend a soccer game. Liga Deportiva Universitaria de Quito or simply known as Liga was hosting an event known as La Noche Blanca where they introduce the years team, new jerseys, and the unveiling of their new coach.

Quick background on Ecuadorian Soccer. Their top flight league is known as Serie A and composed of 12 teams. In Quito alone there are 4 teams but Liga is the only team with its own stadium La Casa Blanca.

Lucas and I caught a taxi to North Quito to watch La Noche Blanca. When we arrived there was a host of fans, scalpers, and the random passerby. We finally found the ticket office and bought our general admission tickets for 6$ a piece. The other tickets were priced at 8 and 20 dollars. When we were standing in line we were asked again and again by different people who had no money for spare change so they could buy a ticket for the game. This people are very serious about their Liga Soccer! We finally arrived at our entrance gate where we were checked by police officers on three different occasions twice before entering the stadium and right after we entered. The final patdown involved being put on a wall with hands touching the wall and legs spread, literally said Abrelas(spread your legs), by a full body armor police officer. The soccer stadium is the place where I have seen the most cops in one location at a time, there were easily over 500 there. 

After we entered the stadium we were trying to find our seats and somehow ended up in the upper deck with the fans of America Cali from Colombia, who were all decked in red.  We asked an usher and he talked with his partner and opened up a blockade to let us into the lower levels to our seats with the Liga fans. We realized that we were probably searched so many times since we came in through the visitors gate. They are very serious about security/safety and keeping the different teams fans separated. When we got to our seats located behind the goal, the crazy Liga fans were climbing up the fencing that encloses the field to tie the red and white banners. Full body armor police officers, picture swat, lined the base of the fence to keep everything under control.

Since it was La Noche Blanca there was an introduction of the players and coaches and their new jerseys. All of this was accompanied by singing, cheering, and fireworks being set off. Finally the game was starting and we could tell that Liga was the far superior side over their Colombian opponents. The first half was dominated by Liga and the defensive mistakes of America Cali, therefore Liga jumped out to a 3-0 lead in the first 30 minutes including a 30 yard free kick golazo! By far the nicest goal I have seen in person in my life. During the whole game the Liga fans were jumping whistling and singing a multitude of Liga chants for every occasion all to the pounding noise of the huge drum in our section. Lucas and I tried to learn the words to the chants and join in the fanfare. After one goal was scored a fan lit a flare he brought in and was running through the stands like a madman! After watching this game, which was only a friendly, I could see the fire and passion that each fan had for the team. Their passion makes ours for American sports pale in comparison. 

After the game, which ended in a 3-0 Liga victory, we rushed out of the stadium and bought some food from a street vendor for 1 dollar which we were told not to do, but hey its Ecuador! The plate was mashed potatoes, meat on top covered with shredded lettuce, cilantro, and onions. The delicious meal topped off what was a perfect day and one of my top 5 sports viewing experiences in my life.

I plan on seeing many more football games while in Ecuador.

Saludos Amigos y Vamos Liga!

Jesse 

Ecuador Life un poquito

Hola Todas

Checking in again from Quito, Ecuador. I have been living in the world’s highest capital for over a week now and have been adapting to not only the altitude but also to the lifestyle.

There are many different aspects between the United States and Ecuador. One of the major differences is in the transportation especially the buses. You can ride any bus in the city or to Cumbaya(location of my university) for the cheap price of 25 cents. *Fun Fact* Ecuador switched its official currency from the Sucre to the American Dollar in the year 2000 to stop hyperinflation and bring stabilization to the Ecuadorian economy. Now back to the buses. Ecuadorian buses will be packed to the brim and then add on 15 more people. With these full buses one has to be aware the wandering hands of pickpocketers in pockets and bags(always hold them in lap if sitting or in front of you if standing). The buses and cars drive at unsafe speeds even in the rain and their favorite way to say hi is to honk their horns as many times as possible. I saw 3 car accidents in half a mile period on the way to Cumbaya. However, if you make it through all of this unscathed you just got a cheap 25 cent transportation to your desired location!

Security in Quito was highly stressed to us during our orientation and the US State Department gives it a critical danger alert. We learned about all the ways to prevent crimes against us and which taxis to take. If you really want to be scared to death to come to Ecuador you can read up on the Secuestro Express and Scoplamine(links provided below). However with all of these deathly warnings I have felt completely safe my entire time here even while traveling at night through La Mariscal(party central in Quito and common pickpocket spot) and the Historical District. You should not let what you read about Ecuador stop you from visiting this beautiful country. 

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2143584/Scopolamine-Powerful-drug-growing-forests-Colombia-ELIMINATES-free-will.html

http://www.abritinecuador.com/tag/secuestro-express/

I am going to end on a little bit of a “shitty” note. Dont read on if easily disgusted by numero 2. In many bathrooms through Ecuador you are not allowed to flush down your used toilet paper after taking the browns to the super bowl. Thankfully this is not the case in my house. In these bathrooms there is a trashcan where you dispose of your used toilet paper and trust me THIS DOES NOT SMELL GOOD! The reason for this is that the pipes were not made to handle toilet paper and poop at the same time. 

Well this is everything for this short check in from a gringo living in Ecuador.

Jesse

Ecuador and Rain

Hola Todas,

As many of you know I am studying abroad in Quito, Ecuador for the Spring of 2014. I am going to try and post the occasional blog post of my adventures, at the suggestion of my brother and Profesora Hesp.

I arrived on Quito on January 4th after a long day of flying from Richmond to Miami to Quito. My host father and his grandson picked me up from the airport. This was my first experience with such a high altitude(9500 feet) and I was huffing and puffing while lugging a 50 pound piece of luggage to the car. My host family is amazing I have a host mom, who is a housewife, a host dad. They themselves have three sons and one has a wife and a son himself. I have been fed great food while here and always have plenty to eat. One thing that I learned about Ecuadorians is that they love their fruits. Tropical fruits grow year round in Ecuador and they have a huge variety. I drink a different type of fruit juice every day, whether it be granjilla, mango, guanabana among many others. I have been speaking only Spanish here with my host family and sometimes have brain overloads but hopefully I will start improving quickly!

The climate in Quito is very temperate with the highs reaching around 70 everyday and the lows in the low 50s(sorry for all of you folks in the states who are in sub zero temperatures right now). One thing that I knew was there was a lot of rain in Quito, but I had no idea how much. It rains practically every afternoon in Quito and last night it rained nonstop from 5pm until around 2am in the morning. A good raincoat is necessary in Quito. I discovered this last night when my “highly water resistant” jacket was soaked by the end of the night. 

I have  met alot of cool people both gringos and ecuatorianos. I can’t wait for the rest of my experiences in this amazing country of Ecuador.

 

 

Through the Eyes of My Major

The Camino de Santiago combines many different aspects related to my major including the use of a foreign language and the economic stimulation brought from the Camino.

Spanish on the Camino is not as important as I thought it was going to be. Obviously knowing Spanish will greatly enhance your overall experience on the Camino. Ordering food, booking albergues, and conversing with the locals would be major pluses but not required. I met many people from America and other countries who knew no Spanish besides Hola Adios and cafe con leche. The mass influx of foreign pilgrims has weakened the concentration of Spanish along the trail, especially in the larger cities.

The economic side of the Camino interested me also. It obviously has been a positive economic force in an otherwise struggling Spain. The mass numbers of Albergues,bars, and resteraunts that are along the Camino is astounding to me. Many towns that were dying have been revitalized by Camino tourism as pilgrims come through and demand goods and services that need to be supplied. However, in the long term I don’t know the effectiveness that Camino tourism will have overall for the country as a while. Basing a whole economy for a certain town on tourism can be a curse, even though money is coming into the towns if the profits are used to just continue to build new resteraunts, bars, and albergues the overall well being and wealth of the town will grow slowly and be completely based on pilgrim tourism. This problem can be seen in many Carribean countries where they are very dependent on tourism for economic growth. This is not to say that the Camino has been bad for the economy but rather it should not be the number 1 econkmic focus if Spain is to improve its economic situation.

Santiago Life

I finished my Camino two days ago after 16 days of hiking over 300km. Now I am living with Jack with a sweet 64 year old lady as our host mom. So far Santiago has been pretty good. Not having to wake up everyday at 7 to hike 20km is great. My body is recovering from all the strains of the Camino. Living with a non English speaker and Jack who knows very little Spanish has been tough in my Spanish skills so far, but the best way to improve is by getting thrown in the deep end and see if I can swim.Lourdes, our Spanish mom, is very loving and makes us three square meals a day! Santiago is a pretty cool city, it has a population of around 90000 people and is split into a new part and old part. The weather so far has been pretty rough , cloudy and constant misting with temperature around the 50s. I can see seasonal depression being a problem here with the constant Seattle like weather. I am also takin classes taught by Annie Hesp at the moment where we use Spanish which is more good practice. I can’t wait to see what else this city has to offer an continue to practice my Spanish for the next 10 days!

Interview of a Local

While in Ambas Mestas I met a very interesting man named Vicente who I got to talk with for about 20 minutes and hear his stories. Vicente is originally from Mallorca and was a banker there for 40 years but had retired and moved, he has a wife who is currently a nurse but is nearing retirement also. Vicente also has two sons who are 27 and 21. We talked a lot about the Camino in general and it turns out he has done it 4 times once by bike and 3 times by foot. He told me he enjoys walking by foot a lot more because of all the opportunities to meet new people from different countries and hear their different stories like myself. We also talked about the financial crises affecting Spain currently and how worried he was especially for his son, who is studying communications at university, because of the lack of jobs in the country. He loved the Camino for many reasons and was surprised by the recent spike in popularity in the last 20 years. According to Vicente the Camino is one of the few positive economic things for Spain at this moment. I loved talking to Vicente for multiple reasons. It was great to practice my Spanish speaking skills, got to hear a locals perspective on the Camjno and the huge influx of foreigners that are coming to Spain for thr Camjno and stimulating a “Camino economic miracle”. After saying my goodbyes to Vicente I now had a new perspective of the Camino.

O’Cebreiro

The hike into O’Cebreiro is not the highest one but definitely one of the steepest. The hike started out pretty uneventful and as we continued toward the mountains. After about 4km the trail started rising and would not stop until we reached O’Cebreiro. The path turns to dirt and is covered in shade by the overhanging trees and is filled with continuous switchbacks as we continued to climb higher and higher. Although other days had taken a physical toll on my body today was the first that tested my cardio. All the hard work was worth it when we broke the treeline and were treated with stunning views of the valley below. After a final push we cross into the province of Galcia and then to O’Cebreiro. Galicia is famous for its Celtic influence, large amount of rain, and regional language called Gallegos which is a mix of Portuguese and Spanish. Reaching the town felt great and I remember talking to a Spanish man the night before ands he told me when you get to the top you will have the knowledge that you struggled and achieved the great distance and altitude by own personal grit and perseverance.

O’Cebreiro is a tiny town from the 9th century. We explored and saw original buildings that had been restored and the local church which they said holds the Holy Grail. My favorite part of the town by far was the cross located on a nearby peak. I went up there with Alex for the views. The cross was super cool because in the crack people had put coins in, Alec and I left our mark by putting the 3rd and 2nd tallest coins respectively. I love all the traditions and such that have been carried on on the Camino which I can participate in.

Hike to Villafranca and the curse of second breakfast

The 24km hike from Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo was one of the most beautiful hikes of the trip but also pretty difficult. Our hike started flatly going through the city and through surrounding outside towns. Along the way we came upon a horse and 2 of the most friendly dogs in their pen. We came up to pet the horse when the dog wanted some love also. He jumped up on his hind legs and put his front paws and head resting on the wall with the cutest look ever. The little things like that moment is what pushes you along the way. After a little more hiking we arrived in town and decided to get a second breakfast of bocadillos. Second breakfast is the greatest gift but also the worst punishment wrapped into one package. After walking for 3 hours on a tiny breakfast of yoghurt fruits and croissants your stomach is growling and body tiring. Second breakfast provides a nice time to get off your feet and refuel, however there are negative consequences. The second you sit down your les begin to stiffen up immediately. When you stand up the tightness and pain in your legs is pretty intense, much more pain than I thought I would endure on this trip. Then it takes another 2km of painful walking until the body loosens itself out.

The remainder of our hike was spent under the hot sun walking through the rolling hills that were covered by grape plants which were to be used for wine production. There were literally millions of plants stretched out as far as the eyes could see. After what seemed an eternity we arrived at the cobble-stoned town of Villafranca at the foot of the mountains that we would soon be crossing.

Winery Tour in Ponferreda

Toady we had a short recovery walk to Ponferrada. Annie booked us a hotel which was a nice surprise and a good break from the communal albergues that we had grown used to. We has a few hours free before any planed activities and Jack, Mark, and I were starving so we decided to get a good old American meal from McDonald’s. The food was great treat to ourselves and gave us a reminder of home.

Our plan for today was a tour of a winery called Tilenus. It was very interesting to see all the different parts of the winery and the intricate details I did not know about the intricacies and difficulties of making a quality wine. The part I found most interesting was talking with our tour guide, in english, about her job and the growth of the business. Examining the economic factors she explained fit perfectly into my major of International Studies. Tilenus is a smaller winery but is beginning to expand thanks to things such as globalization, reducing of trade barriers, and demand for wine from the al Bierzo rose. Al Bierzo grows two types of distinctive grapes which can only b found in this valley region of Spain. Our tour guide has worked for this company for 5 years and she is mainly an international spokesperson for the winery. She told of the difficulties of competing and catching up with other companies that have been globalized for many years already and seen rapid growth. I found this whole subject very interesting and showed that things I am studying in school are happening real time all around the world.